TLDR; this SCCA log-booked Improved Touring (ITC) road racing car is freshly prepped (nut/bolts torqued, oil and filter changed, fresh brake fluid and bled) and ready to race at Mid-Ohio this coming weekend, do the Mid-Ohio track day the following Monday, and race the enduro with friends the following weekend at Gingerman during the SCCA Team Bracket Endurance Challenge – all with little maintenance but a whole lot of smiles.
OK, now be prepared for more info than anyone really cares for…
This CRX started life in 1985 but was reborn as a race car and first log-booked in June 2004 and lived in the Summit Point / MARRS region of the SCCA until I bought it in 2009. It is now on its second logbook and since I have owned it has finished every race except one, when I stuffed it into the tire wall at Mid-Ohio back in 2010 – however, we repaired it and raced the next day!
Chassis: 1985 Honda CRX DX, but looks like a 1986/87 model because I grafted the later flush-mount headlights onto the front. I swapped the headlights because 1) I far prefer the look and 2) the plastic buckets that surround the '84/85 headlights are incredibly brittle and impossible to find. The doors have been gutted but the factory glass remains everywhere else.
Cage: way over-built for the rules with extra door bars and gussets everywhere – the builder built it for his wife to race, which she never did, but nonetheless he built her a tank. His welding skills were aesthetically poor, but despite the welds being ugly it has always been deemed safe and passed annual tech, even when inspected by an over-zealous scrutineer with a dental mirror.
Weight: I can’t find my notes from the last time I had it on the scales to set the corner weights to say exactly what it weighs empty but during impound of my last race it was 1994lbs with just over a quarter tank of fuel and me (175lbs) in it – corner weights were 683LF / 536RF / 385 LR / 390RR and ITC class minimum is 1955lbs w/ driver.
Suspension: adjustable Tokico Illumina (Whites) dampers on all four corners, torsion bars (unknown rate) in the front, Ground Control springs (400lb, I think) in the rear
Fully adjustable camber AND caster plates on the front
Fully adjustable panhard bar.
Engine: Honda D15A1 – 1.5li, this motor was originally built in ’06 by Roger Troxell (Honda guru in the Summit Point area who built many championship winning Honda motors) and has his fancy baffled oil pan. In ’13 I did the timing belt and water pump and had a full head service performed by Fowler. After my last race I did a compression test and the numbers are still great – 182, 178, 180, 185
Carburetor: Weber DGV 32/36, bought and swapped in '15...so much better than the race-prepped Honda carbs we all previously ran
Exhaust: custom Pucket 4-1 header (the one to have, they're like gold) with a slip-fit connector into a straight pipe that terminates with a turndown behind the driver
Transmission: 5spd Honda DA48. Ratios: 2.917, 1.765, 1.182, 0.846, 0.714 and a 4.266 final drive. It was thoroughly inspected and a Steve Eckrich/OPM limited-slip differential (much better than Quaife) installed in '11 by Bone (thee Honda transmission guru)
FIA-rated Momo seat with integrated head-restraints/wings
Schroth Profi II Hans 6-point FIA-rated harnesses, expire in 2021
Momo Mod. 69 suede steering wheel with NRG quick-release
G-Force SFI-rated window net
full-width wink mirror
cage-mounted side mirrors (less drag and weight than stock mirrors)
cage helmet hook
stock gauge cluster + additional voltage, oil pressure, water temp, and fuel pressure gauges
adjustable dash-mounted shift light
Sparco pedal covers for better heel-toe
gutted doors with custom aluminum interior door panels
custom aluminum false-floor with integrated dead pedal
Flaming River master kill switch mounted to the driver’s A-pillar (best location, IMO)
Fire system – it has the small required 5lb bottle mounted to the passenger floor but I also have a FIA-homologated 4li SPA FireSense system with all the hardware and plumbing that will go with the car. Both are fully charged but will need their annual inspections.
Wheels: all are 13x6
2 – set of four steel Diamond wheels
1 – set of four Rials
1 – set of four Panasport knock-offs
Tires (being so light this car is very gently on tires):
6 (4 mounted) – used Kumho V710 for practice and track days
4 (mounted) – lightly used Hankook Z214 with enough life for likely your entire first season
10 (unmounted) – new sticker Hankook Z214
Mechanical spares: (not an exhaustive list, I have a lot...)
2 – engine, complete (used, condition unknown)
2 – transmission, complete (used, condition and ratios unknown)
1 - head (used, condition unknown)
1 - fan (used)
2+ – Honda OEM throttle cable (new)
2 – carburetor (used, both OEM Honda, one has been race-prepped)
2 – axle (can't recall if new or rebuilt and I may actually have 4)
2 - brake caliper (reman, 1 per side)
2 – brake rotor (new)
2 – Carbotech front pads (1 new set, 1 used set with a lot of life remaining)
2+ – coolant hose (used)
5+ – belts (alternator and serpentine)
2 – outer tie rod (new)
1 – front wheel bearing (new, Koyo)
1 – rear hub and bearing (new, Timken bearing and ARP extended studs)
3 – lower control arm (new, 2 one side, 1 the other – I forget which)
3 – motor mount (used)
2 – braided front brake line (new)
2 – headers (one Pucket 4-1 knockoff and one DC Sports 4-2-1)
1 – steering rack (used)
1 – shift linkage (used)
Paint-matched spare body parts: (again, not exhaustive and may contain an error; these all live in the garage attic and it’s difficult to do an accurate inventory without pulling everything down)
1 – hood
4 – front fenders (two per side, and at 30+ years old these are like gold)
2 – header panel (may have three)
2 – front bumper
1 – rear bumper
A large box of electrical components – alternator, starter, distributor, coil, plugs, wires, fuseable links, etc
ARP wheel studs
tail/brake light assembly (two pairs)
I have a nearly complete 1986 CRX DX that comes with the race car for parts. It lived in California before I took it off the road so it has very little to no rust. Still has the motor and transmission but their condition is unknown. Bumpers were pulled off and are now included in the painted spares above. The parts car is stored in my grandparents' barn 1.5hrs away.
My aluminum twin-axle open-deck Trailex trailer also comes with the car. It’s ugly and needs new lights but it’s ALUMINUM and very light – just under 800lbs. At a combined sub-3000lbs any truck/SUV can easily tow the car and trailer to the track.
This package comes with enough tires and spare parts to keep you racing competitively for years.
There is also enough here so you could build the parts car into a second car and create a race team with friends or father/son or a rental arrive & drive program. Also, this car is awesome for endurance races because it has the stock fuel tank and sips fuel = a larger range than any other car on track.
The other IT racers, especially the ITC guys, are a blast to race with – they’ll race you hard, but fair, and then hand you a burger and cold beer and swap stories with you around the paddock campfire until the wee hours.
Know that this is not a show queen; it has battle scars just like any other car in the paddock but passes the "50’ and 50mph" appearance rule and also comes with enough body panels to make it look new.
Most importantly it is a fun, well-sorted, reliable, easy and affordable to maintain race car.
If you’ve ever wanted to get into racing and care about learning proper race craft and how to maintain momentum – crucial skills that will separate you from the pack and that you'll carry into any vehicle you ever race – you’ve found your car.
More detailed pictures available upon request; our driveway was just repaved and I haven't been able to pull the car out of the garage on it yet.
Not interested in trades of any kind.